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GELATO, A MARVELOUS JOURNEY

We arrive at the Gelateria Del Biondo in Brescia with keen interest and great curiosity, and this is for multiple reasons. The first is because it’s not easy to get interviews with its owner, Tiziano Chincoli, who has been at the helm of this artisan business for many years, managing it with dedication and entrepreneurial skill. Secondly, because his business holds a prominent place among the city’s gelaterias thanks to its quality, assortment, style, and effective communication. A third reason is due to where this gelato shop is located and how it presents itself—not in the immediate historic center—and with particular signs that signal its unique specificity.

Here is the story of this meeting, starting from these observations, and particularly from the last one. A few minutes from the center, in via Vittorio Emanuele II at number 115, the Gelateria Del Biondo reveals itself with a retro look and a couple of unusual signs: Laboratorio – Gelateria Bresciana dal 1935 – Gelato Prêt-à-Porter Made in Biondo, which underscore its artisanal nature, strong territorial identity, continuous presence over time and in the area, and its home delivery service.

Already at first glance, one senses a difference in approach regarding communication and content compared to the standard. This is better understood once inside, speaking with the owner, and observing the display and furnishings: a mix of evocative vintage photos, a large assortment, and flash backs from Fb and Ig. An original approach and an ironic perspective that invites tasting and seeing this particular and characteristic piece of gelato art in person.

The location of the shop depends on the site of the Del Biondo production laboratory. Del Biondo was the nickname of Quinto Renon, born in 1910, the founder of this old artisan business, so named for his thick blonde hair. He was originally from Agordo, in Val di Zoldo, in the Belluno area, territories that are the cradle of Italian gelato. In the 19th century, many people from Zoldo and Cadore departed from here for Central and Northern Europe and Latin America—Argentina and Brazil first among them—to bring their artisanal gelato, a specialty then unknown to most, which they succeeded in making appreciated everywhere through skill, sacrifice, and commitment.

From a fascinating history…

We retrace the history with Chincoli and what had enchanted him about this place. The story begins on June 14, 1938, the date that served as the basis for the recognition awarded to him in 2019 at the Pirelli Skyscraper as an ” Ancient Artisan Workshop”, founded in ’35 by Quinto Renon, the courageous Zoldo native who achieved success thanks also to his hair. Joined by his wife Rosa Faoro, Quinto registered with the Chamber of Commerce on June 14, 1938: the date that served as the basis for the Region’s recognition. Since then, Quinto and Rosa worked hard through the 60s until his passing in ’68. His wife continued the business for a long time, following his teachings. Then, their children pursued different paths: that’s when she decided to retire.

From the direct knowledge of such events, that felt so engaging for people like Chincoli, who was a customer of the gelato shop ever since he was a child “came the idea of treasure the heredity of the Biondo, relaunching its vision with a new spirit. That’s why we recently applied to the Regione Lombardia contest to recognize its Artisan Quality, of which we are very proud.”

…to a fruitful entrepreneurial experience

These were the reasons for the affectionate, rather than economic, interest he had in this business. What was his background when he took the lead? It was known that he was a marketing expert with a past in companies like Barilla and then became an entrepreneur in the restaurant sector. However, everything must be traced back to his discovery as a child of gelato and this shop that produced it artisanally, and his decision as an adult to dedicate himself to this product, discovering its art and passion, and making it a life choice.

“Initially, I knew nothing about this world,” he recounted. “I had this place in my heart, and, as we will see, I accepted the challenge, even though I was absolutely unaware of the enormous commitment hidden behind this work—a shop open from morning to evening, year after year. My mission? To restore the full flavor of the raw materials used in the cone or cup , utilizing them to the best, always aiming for a result that is as faithful as possible to the original taste, significantly reducing the sugar content, and experimenting every day with a constant research activity made up of continuous testing. From then until today, this gelateria has always stood out for passion, curiosity, innovation, and the ability to interpret changes and new dietary needs with great respect for the original flavors of rigorously selected raw materials”.

The reasons for attraction

“In light of all this, we tried to identify the main reasons for the growing consensus for this Historic Gelato Shop: the care for the quality and taste of the gelato and the breadth and originality of the assortment developed in rotation in the tubs with over 140 flavors. In the classics, pistachio comes in multiple versions, including a water-based one for vegans, or in suggestive proposals like Saffron, Rose and Violet Petals, or Whipped Egg in homage to the snack of generations of Bresciani”.

Added to this are other products : the Pinguini (ice cream on a stick), still prepared today in the traditional sheath mold originally used ; the semifreddo parfait, based on torroncino (nougat) and fresh cream enclosed between two wafers (a registered trademark) ; the Bon Bon, small single-serving semifreddos in a box ; the Cakes; the Zuccotti; the fresh fruit popsicles requested even in winter ; the stuffed fruit ; the gluten-free and lactose-free line ; up to the very successful ProZona gelato bar line. These are gelato flavors difficult to find anywhere else and traditional products re-proposed in a modern key with absolute style packaging. Finding the metal molds is rare and engaging; the emotion that its history evokes is part of the charm of gelato.

The evolution of the shop

What is now the gelateria “was initially the residence of Del Biondo and the laboratory where two or three flavors at most were produced, and then he would go out during the day with the cart to sell the artisanal delicacies in front of the schools, oratories, and churches after masses”. Chincoli recalls that “with the passing of the years, the residence progressively transformed into a shop, going through various phases: from the first visible vertical machines, with annexed wells for the conservation and sale of the gelato, until the laboratory was moved to the upper floor, dedicating the ground floor exclusively to serving. For about thirty years, the laboratory has returned to the shop floor in the adjacent room; in an effort towards functionality, a storage room, essential for stocking raw materials, was also created next to the gelateria. The containers for sorted waste collection, which are often very bulky, are also housed here. The internal spaces, for architectural reasons, have remained almost unchanged – our interviewee continued – despite the growth in production, both in quantity and variety”. Looking up, we discover “a contemporary design chandelier (Moooi Light Shade Shade 95), which recalls the shape of candlesticks from the past. On the main wall, a vintage photo has been placed, depicting the founder loading the carts in the 1930s, right in front of the entrance. We tried to optimize the spaces as much as possible, dedicating great attention to the display to offer the customer a complete and engaging overview of the production”.

Let’s go back to our arrival, in addition to what we had already observed: “Outside, even the way customers experience the space has also changed. For many decades, there was only one bench in front of the entrance, and the few available spots were immediately occupied. With the passage of time and the increase in flow, the choice was made to offer a more generous welcome: we requested permission from the Municipality to occupy part of the public land, so as to provide customers with a larger and more comfortable area to sit and enjoy the gelato. Today, there is a 36 square meter outdoor area with numerous available seats, an important added value for the consumption experience”.

What Remains of the Day

Following the title of this exquisite 1993 film directed by James Ivory and starring Antony Hopkins in the role of the protagonist, I wondered what I communicate between the lines and what I take with me from this interview with Tiziano Chincoli.

Undoubtedly, a representative snapshot of a certain way of understanding, managing, and making gelato, a sobriety in presenting the facts and a clarity in interpreting the spirit of the times that are rare and not to be taken for granted, which can help young people attracted to this sector to know it and choose it with awareness. And, above all, trust in the future of this sector by someone who feels it deeply and wishes to transmit the values received and those learned and put into practice in the field.

From an entrepreneurial figure like his, who has over time flanked entrepreneurial spirit with artisanal skills, it was also interesting to grasp the point of view of the employer who also had one of his children engaged in the laboratory during multiple summer seasons, and motivated in this experience, even if it has remained just that for now.

Creating a team that works through time is not easy. “What is essential,” he explained, “is the ability to listen. You need to listen to young people. Understand their dreams, what they are looking for, and what they want from work and from tomorrow. Based on the task they perform, they have a challenging job in the laboratory with production, as well as in the shop in their relationship with customers”.

The story of Del Biondo is one that was deeply felt and embraced, and an authentic account of its continuation, from which emerges the will to make people understand the identity and spirit with which he manages a business and a passion. A set of objectives and value-based content that presupposes a broad, composite, and evolving vision of the world of gelato, one that is still entirely to be written based on future personal and market choices.